Questions |
Answers |
More Info on this question |
Q: Do I
have to drain my pool to convert from chlorine to BAQUACIL? Or back to chlorine, if I wish? Bob S., Bear Creek |
Michael: No.
All that's required to convert from one sanitizer to another (or back
again) is that your pool water be relatively free of the sanitizer you're
converting from. In other words, a
zero chlorine level gives you the "green light" to start using
BAQUACIL, and vice-versa. |
Time alone will drop a
sanitizer's level to zero, though chlorine bottoms out much faster than
BAQUACIL, which can take up to two weeks to zero out. |
Q: Does
BAQUACIL "build up" in my pool, requiring draining every few
years? Anne B., Huntington Mills |
Michael: No.
This is one myth dreamed up by non-BAQUACIL pool dealers. BAQUACIL dissipates to a zero level over
time just like chlorine. Though, due
to its more stable nature, it takes BAQUACIL longer to do so, up to two
weeks. |
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Q: I'm
in the market for a new filter system, and have been hearing a lot about DE.
filters. What are they? Are they good? bad? What’s your
opinion on -Jack B., Plains |
Michael: DE., short for Diatomaceous Earth filters
are, in our view, the best on the market.
Unlike sand filters, which use a permanent bed of sand as their
“media”, DE. filters have inside them a super tightly woven mesh fabric,
which gets coated with powder called Diatomaceous Earth. The D.E.
powder absorbs and filters out particulates as small as one to two
microns, which is amazingly tiny.
(Sand filters are capable of removing only 25 microns or larger.) The end result is pool water that is
astonishingly clear. |
DE filter owners also realize a
savings in their sanitizer, since it is removing many of the contaminants
that a sand filter would leave in the water.
Superior Pools offers a policy to all DE filter buyers that if they
are not completely satisfied with the performance of their DE filter, we will
give them within one year a full credit toward a new sand filter. We believe in DE. Go for it, Jack. |
Q: Is
BAQUACIL harmful to my pool liner or pipes? |
Michael: No.
Chlorine is though. BAQUACIL
is not an oxidizer like chlorine is, it is simply a bactericide, meaning
BAQUACIL kills bacteria only.
Chlorine, on the other hand, kills bacteria through an erosive
oxidizing process, and oxidizes everything else it comes in contact with like
your pool parts, liner, covers and pipes, not to mention bathing suits. BAQUACIL does none of these things. |
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Q:
I've been hearing a lot lately about ozonators. What are they and what do they do? -Mel B., Clarks Summit |
Michael: Ozone generators, or
"ozonators" are a marvelous pool water sanitizing device. They sanitize your pool water by
manufacturing and injecting ozone gas into it through a venturi at your
pool's filter. Ozone gas is innocuous
but a powerful oxidizer, closely related to oxygen, which kills bacteria 3000
times faster than chlorine, burns up irritating "chloramines", and
reduces your chlorine demand by
70 to 80%. |
Ozone gas is created by nature
during lightning storms, purifying the air, and is the crisp scent you smell
afterwards. Though an ozonator can be
a hefty investment at the outset, they provide an ongoing savings on
chlorine, a constant and vigilant means of sanitizing, and ultra-pure pool
water. Many motel operators, who
can't afford to have pool water clarity problems, have installed them. Ozone is an excellent and modern method of
sanitizing your pool with many benefits. |
Q:
Last winter my pool cover tore, the leaves fell in and now my pool resembles
a swamp. Must I drain the pool to
clear up this water? Help!! -June L., Larksville |
Michael: Don't panic, and no, you don't have to
drain your pool. Take patience and my
advice: Get the solids out by
dredging the floor with a good pool "leaf rake". A leaf rake is like a hand skimmer but
with a bag type net instead of a taut screen. If you don't have one, buy one. They run about $15-$20
and will make your job a lot easier.
Next, run your filter 24 hours a day until it's clear. Balance your water following the
recommendations of a professional water analysis. Add 2 lbs. of a di-chlor granular chlorine through the skimmer
each day for five days, and 4 ounces of a good polymeric algicide daily. You'll start to "see daylight"
after a few days, then you'll be able to vacuum the floor conventionally with
your vacuum head. As it clears, brush
the floor and walls with a wall brush until spotless. |
For future reference, replace
your winter cover with a good quality 24 thread fabric, and drain rain water
off it as needed during the off-season.
Then you won’t end up with a swamp again. |
Q: My
pool is chronically turning green.
How can I solve this problem?
-Jerry L., Mountaintop |
Michael: Green water is most often caused by algae,
a microscopic, single celled animal which can multiply geometrically
(2-4-8-16-32-64, etc.) and rapidly in lakes, ponds and pools, given low
sanitizer levels and the right environmental conditions. The short answer is to convert your
chlorinated pool to BAQUACIL. Green
water in a BAQUACIL treated pool is virtually non-existent, due to the
effective algicide used in the BAQUACIL system. The least you should do is to use a good algicide (not those
found in Marts or Clubs, which are 90 to 95% water) on a weekly basis. After initial application, brush your
walls and floor with a pool wall brush attachment, and scrub your solar cover
and ladder rungs with a 5% solution of that algicide and water. Adjust your pH upward too, as algae can
grow more readily in a low pH. |
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Q: My
pool pump is a one horse power, but I don't get half the flow or vacuuming
power out of it that my brother gets with his one h.p. pump. What gives? |
Michael: You're using the wrong yardstick to
measure "rate-of-flow" with.
A pool pump is actually two components: the motor, and the attached pump itself. Horse power is only a measurement of the
electricity required to spin the motor; horse power has nothing to do with
the design of the pump. It is the internal design of the pump
which determines rate of flow.
Therefore, a well designed pump can move up to 60% more water than a
poorly designed one. To add insult to
injury, the poorly designed one is using the same amount of electricity to
operate as the spunkyer pump. For
example, a Muskin 1 h.p. pump moves about
gallons per minute, while a
Hayward 1 h.p. pump moves
gpm. |
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Q: My
pool stays crystal clear, and all I do is add chlorine every day. What's all the hullabaloo about
"water balance"? pH,
alkalinity, calcium hardness and all that stuff? -Stan K., Wanamie |
Michael: I'm proud of your clear water, Stan, but
I’ll also bet you're pounding your water hard enough with chlorine that any
organism with the least bit of sense is afraid to go near your pool! The key, as the Greeks suggested, is
"all things in moderation".
Overdosing with chlorine may keep a pool clear, but it's harmful to
your equipment, liner, covers and your pool itself, not to mention being
offensive to swimmers. Your chlorine
level should be kept between 1.0 and (no greater than) 3.0 p.p.m. Pool water will remain clear there and not be "sanitizer
soup". With respect to
"balanced water", pool water is most comfortable to swimmers and
least corrosive to equipment when the pH is at 7.4, the Total Alkalinity
between 80 and 120 ppm, and the Calcium Hardness between 180 and 250
ppm. |
You can determine this with a
water sample analysis at a competent pool dealer, and should do so at least
three times a season or more. Keep
these levels there, and for the love
of the ozone layer, lighten up on the chlorine! |
Q: My
pool water is currently causing an irritating or "burning"
sensation. What causes this and how
do I solve it? -Brooke S., Dallas |
Michael: If you're using chlorine, chloramines, a
by-product of chlorine, are the most common cause of eye irritation. They build up in pool water when chlorine
combines with organic matter such as leaves, bugs, perspiration and body
oils. They must be "burned
up" by properly "shocking" the pool (determining your
"combined chlorine" level, and adding 10 times that amount of
granular chlorine at one time). Two
other possible causes of eye irritation are low sanitizer levels, and water
"out of balance" with regard to pH, Total Alkalinity and Calcium
Hardness. These levels should be kept
at 7.4, 110 ppm and 220 ppm, respectively.
Bottom line solution: Take a
water sample to a competent pool dealer, have them do a computer analysis,
and follow their recommendations. |
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Q:
Over the last winter, my pool cover tore, the leaves fell in and now my pool
resembles a swamp. Must I drain it to
clear this water? Help!! -June L., Larksville |
Michael: Don't panic, and no, you don't have to
drain it. Just follow these
instructions: Get the solids out by
dredging the floor with a good pool "leaf rake". A leaf rake is like a hand skimmer with a
bag type net on it. If you don't have
one, buy one. For about $15 they're a
great and easy tool for cleaning debris up from a pool. Next, run your filter 24 hours a day until
it's clear. Balance your water on
the recommendations of a professional water analysis. Then add 2 lbs. of a di-chlor chlorine
through the skimmer each day for five days, along with 4 ounces of a good
polymeric algicide daily. You'll
start to "see daylight" after a few days, then you'll be able to
vacuum the floor conventionally with your vacuum head. Your final step will be to brush the floor
and walls with a wall brush. You
should be in good shape after that. |
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Q:
Pool water temperature is always a problem for us with overhanging trees, so
I'm considering making my own solar heat system with a series of 3/4"
black pipe. Your thoughts? -Andy W., Sweet Valley |
Michael: Save your time and money. In order for you to get effective heat out
of a series of black poly pipe, you'll have to have about 40 square feet of
surface area for every 3000 gallons of water. That means a 20,000 gallon pool will have to have 280 square
feet of pipe exposed to the sun. In
other words, you'll have to buy your neighbors' yards to lay that amount of
exposed pipe on the ground! Consider
solar heat panels instead. They're
compact and much more effective. Fafco
(distributed by Rex Plumbing and Heating) makes a well designed solar panel
in 4'x10' and 4'x8'. |
The most economical means of
heating a pool is a solar cover. If
you're looking for more heat on demand, a natural gas heater is the most
economical way to go. Figure 11,000 btu's
for every 1000 gallons of pool water.
If you don't have natural gas available where you live, liquid propane
is the next most economical option, but will require a LP tank. Don't consider anything less than a 500
gallon gas tank. Oil and electric heaters are the most expensive to buy and
to operate. |
Q:
We're thinking of converting our pool to BAQUACIL because we heard it's
easier, but I'm told it's more expensive than chlorine, is this true? What will it cost me to use it? Betty C., Drums |
Michael: We don't represent BAQUACIL as a cheaper
alternative to chlorine, just a better one.
We have many customers, however, who boast of better results AND
savings over chlorine. We estimate
the average size pool will cost about $250 to sanitize with BAQUACIL from
Memorial Day to Labor Day. When you
factor in the savings that BAQUACIL doesn't prematurely deteriorate your
pipes, hoses, liner, covers, pool parts and bathing suits like chlorine does,
the "big picture" cost of using BAQUACIL is about the same as
chlorine. Plus, your time saved on
the daily testing and dosing of chlorine is worth something as well. |
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Q:
What causes my pool water to become "cloudy"? Jack H., Minooka |
Michael: We can count 11 causes of
"cloudy" or "hazy" water. The most common four are:
Inadequate filtration equipment, Inadequate filtration time (24 hours
a day is recommended by the NSPI), Insufficient sanitizer levels and Pool
water that is "out-of-balance" relative to pH, Alkalinity and
Calcium levels. A competent pool
dealer can ask the right questions, test your pool water and find the source
of your cloudy water to bring it back to the crystal clarity you should be
enjoying. |
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